Fiji

On our way to Fiji, while still hundreds of miles from land, it suddenly appeared as if we were sailing into a coral reef . By checking the charts and depth sounder for the second time, we confirmed we were still in water more than two thousand feet deep. The water all around us was discolored. In the middle of the blue ocean there were rivers of yellow-brown-green water with chunks of yellowish particles mixed in. There were also 18“ long brown tube like creatures floating below the surface in this soup. The ocean appeared to be oozing goo. It took us about 2 hours to sail through this area. Our charts indicate that there are undersea volcanoes in the vicinity, but not where we were. It was disconcerting to be sailing through this stuff when we didn’t know what it was. We still aren’t certain whether the particles were animal or mineral……a type of plankton or part of a undersea volcano venting…but we were glad to leave it in our wake.

We arrived in Suva, the capital city of Fiji. “Soggy Suva” was what one cruiser called it. Although we arrived in the dry season, it rained every day in the afternoon and about half of the mornings. Suva is a port city, with an industrial flare to it. Until now, the islands we have visited have been largely of a mono-culture but here it is about a 50-50 split of Indo-Fijians and Poly-Fijians. There is a tension here between the two groups and earlier this year there was civil unrest.

The fruit and vegetable market here is amazing. Huge quantities and rock bottom prices. We loaded the boat with whatever we thought we could eat before it would perish. At the fish market, the fishmongers display their fish on tables and on the ground without ice or refrigeration. Watching the fish mongers shoo flies away with palm fronds in the hot weather, discouraged us from making a purchase.

A tour of the museum gave us a quick overview of the people’s history. Fascinating fact: cannibalism was practiced in Fiji until as recently as the year 1870. On display we saw special forks that were once used as part of the ritual at which human flesh is consumed. Also, one specific island tribe practiced fire-walking. Actually, the walked on white hot rocks that were heated in a fire. We took the opportunity view a cannibal -free cultural display of fire-walking, dancing and singing at a nearby city cultural centre.

While we were in port, a sailing vessel from Finland, “Marita,” was wrecked on the reef at the entrance to the harbour. After a nine year sailing adventure, the retired dentist and city administrator’s journey ended here in Suva. Both were uninjured and were rescued at 11:00 pm just a ½ mile from the harbour by the Fijian navy. The navy left two sailors aboard to guard the boat until the next morning when the owners could return and remove their personal possessions. We had seen the sailing vessel “Marita” in different anchorages throughout the South Pacific. We spoke to them after their ordeal and the only explanation they had for the accident was bad visibility at night. This is exactly why we have NEVER entered a unfamiliar harbour at night. If we arrive at night, we “heave-to” off shore and wait for daylight.